The Basics

Before I begin by taking you through the life of a novice alpine farmer, allow me to explain some of the “givens” in my description of the farm and farm life:

• My uniform: I brought ratty farm clothes, knowing they would most likely have no second life after I got back. I found that the best outfit I could wear for any sort of farm work was jeans, a baggy t-shirt, and a baseball cap. Although it got rather hot working outside all day (thankfully minus the humidity of the US East Coast!), jeans were really the best bottom layer because they protected my sensitive city legs from things that bite, sting, burn, or itch…both plant and animal. I also found that a baggy t-shirt was the best top layer—much cooler than anything remotely form-fitting, and I quickly learned that the sleeves offer a useful extra bit of protection as well. Hence the farmer’s tan. I was given a baseball cap and ordered to wear it to protect against the sun; without it, I was warned, I would quickly become tired and develop a headache from working in the sun all day. So I faithfully wore my baseball cap every day, and I was extremely grateful for it!

[my uniform:]

• My schedule: Subject to minor adjustments depending on the day and the harvest, we had breakfast every morning at the slothful hour of 8:30. You may find this surprisingly late for a farm, but since the cows are up grazing on the alpine pasture for the summer, they can afford to get a later start on the main farm. (That being said, the farmer was usually working literally from sunup to sundown.) Lunch (the big, warm meal of the day) was at noon, and then we’d work some more until an afternoon coffee and snack break at about 4 pm. A normal day could end anywhere between 4 pm and 6 pm, giving me an average of 6-8 hours of work per day. Oh, and I worked 6 days a week. And because of the way the hay harvest panned out, I actually only had 2 totally free days the whole time I was there!

[my farm:]


• My accommodation: Part of the appeal of WWOOFing is that you provide free manual labor in exchange for room and board. My board was no problem—the mother was used to cooking for a family of 8 anyway—and my room was alternately a converted stable with a bed or the guest apartment, depending on who was staying at the farm. In the stable I had a bed, but I had to go down to the outhouse or the main house if I needed to use the facilities. The guest apartment was a nice treat in comparison, as it even had a TV! I spent about half of my time in each, but I must say that despite its rustic appeal, the dark, damp, spider-ridden stable was the more difficult accommodation; I think it was the allure of knowing that indoor plumbing was available elsewhere that made me feel much more out-of-place in the stable room.

[my sleeping stable:]

• My farm: I’d unwittingly chosen to go work on the farm of THE herb lady in Tyrol. When I got there I realized that the main attraction on the farm was the herb garden. The farmeress (alas, the English language lacks any distinction between male and female farmers!) gave tours of the herb garden every week, as well as seminars and other such special events, and produced and sold various herbal products. She’s written two books, has been featured national Austrian television, and is considered THE go-to person for herbs in that province. It’s an organic farm, so everything is grown and harvested using the most natural and backbreaking of methods. In addition to the herb garden, there are 8 hectares of land with harvestable hay (on the steep mountainside that constitutes all the farmland), about 30 chickens (and two very chauvinistic roosters), a goat (who honestly thinks it’s a dog), 10 cats (who are expected to earn their keep catching field mice), a couple of guinea pigs (as the daughter’s pets), a couple of rabbits (and the jury’s still out on whether they’re pets or just being fattened up for…well…you know…), a handful of ducks (the tall, skinny kind like in the movie Babe), a couple of bee boxes (which are sadly being invaded by ants), and about 15 cows and calves and 2 sheep currently up in the alpine pastures.

[rooster and goat video:]

So as my tale of farm life unfolds, please feel free to ask any questions via blog comments or email, and I’ll make sure to clarify/elaborate/embellish!

A Return to Civilization

I'm home, and I've got a bonified farmer's tan!

I made it back from the farm yesterday and am now back in Graz. I just wanted to check in and say thank you for all of your notes and encouragement (but as I had no internet access, I just now got them), and I did survive my near-month on the farm.

I've learned to work outside in the fields in the heat of the day. I've [more or less] milked a cow. I've seen spiders in every shape, size, and color, both inside and outside. And thankfully, oh so thankfully, I am not allergic to hay.

It was hard work--just as I suspected it to be. But I also learned valuable life skills like how to harvest hay on a steep mountainside or how to drive cows to the alpine pasture with a few choice words and a cattle prod or how to churn butter from the cream you've separated from the fresh cow's milk. I battled what I would consider "real" homesickness for the first time in my life, and I met some really interesting people who made the whole trip worthwhile. I learned such a great deal during my 24 days on the farm, and I am so grateful that I had this opportunity.

There is SO much to tell. But lucky you--this isn't the old days of my mass emails (some of you may still remember my [infamously] long report after my trip to Romania in 2006!)...this go around I've got a blog. I kept a journal while I was there about my experiences, impressions, and what I learned, and my plan is to give you choice exerpts every few days or so. This way you can learn about the trip and keep up at a managable pace.

And please keep your comments coming--I love to hear your reactions and feedback!

Old Rebecca had a farm, E-I-E-I-O!

So, it's official: I have a plan. And not just any plan...I've got a summer plan unlike any summer plan I've had before. The details have been squared away, and am leaving in less than 48 hours.

This summer, I'm going to go work on a farm. And not just any farm--I'm going to work on a mountain farm in the Austrian Alps.

The idea came to me on a dreary winter's day on a train. One of the popular vacation trends in Austria these days is to take your family to a farm for a week or two and chill out in the countryside. And I thought to myself, 'Why not work on the farm?' As soon as this idea took hold, it didn't let go. Nevermind the fact that I've never been on a farm before or done any sort of manual labor or even worked outside. Nevermind I've never gotten within arm's length of a cow. Nevermind I hate spiders. And I hope I'm not allergic to hay.

I knew immediately that I wanted to work on a farm in the Austrian mountains, and more specifically in Tyrol. I don't know why Tyrol exactly...I just knew it was famous for its mountains and it sounded nice. That, and the Tyrolean dialect would be a new challenge. As I researched my options, I randomly found an organization online called WWOOF--World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms. Basically, with WWOOFing you have the opportunity to work anywhere in the world on an organic farm in exchange for room and board. And since I was looking for a cheap and long-term way to spend my summer, WWOOFing seemed like the perfect fit. And although I'd never heard of this organization before, the minute I started mentioning my plans to my friends, I learned that my friends or friends of my friends had had WWOOFing experiences of their own!

Of the 211 farms in Austria, only 7 were in Tyrol. Since this province was my first choice, I carefully read every description and decided that my first choice would be the following (translation mine):

This mountain farm resting at 980 m above sea level has been farmed organically since 1983 by the Messners and their 6 children, whose aim is to undertake this task energetically and dynamically. They want to survive as farmers in the EU, to preserve nature, to bring the old ways back into style, and to trust the Lord God. On the beautiful Tyrolean farm you can learn how to make cheese and bread, woodworking, the harvest and production of herbs and herbal products, and the extensive manual labor in the field and garden. You will be assigned to the milking of the 17 cows and 12 sheep, to the harvest of the hay, to the field/forest/garden work, and to the collection of the herbs.

Here my opportunities seemed broad and varied, and so I contacted the family and arranged to work for a month on their farm...starting Thursday! Most of my resposibilities this time of year will involve the hay harvest and working to collect and dry the herbs, however there may be opportunities here and there to work with the livestock. It's in a place I'd never heard of that seems like a cute little village in the mountains. I don't know if I'll have cell phone reception up there (I hear that's very unlikely), and I probably won't have internet access, so you probably won't be hearing from me for awhile. I expect to more or less become a hermit for the next month.

I'm very excited about my upcoming farm life--thrilled to be working outdoors every day, thrilled to be doing manual labor (yes! it's true!), and thrilled to learn a way of life that is so foreign to me. To live in a self-sustaining environment will be so educational, and I hope to learn a lot and gain a new appreciation for the food we eat and the hard work that brings it to us.

Wish me luck!

School's Out!

I have a gift--a real blessing--that totally boggles my mind:

I'm staring headlong into a 4 month long summer vacation.

Never in my life have I had a summer this long. It's both exciting and scary at the same time...four months without obligations, agendas, duties...or paychecks. On the one hand, the sky's the limit and I can do whatever I want to. On the other hand, I don't want to look back at the end of these four months and feel like a wasted my time. So this is my chance!...but for what?

This past week I've been thinking about what I want to do this summer, including both my plans and my goals. I've got a pretty strong idea of how I plan to spend the bulk of my time, but I'll wait till I've worked out the details before I divulge my master plan. Now that I can devote my free time to all sorts of projects, guests, visits, etc., I think I've got a pretty great summer ahead of me!

I'm definitely coming back to the US from September 2-25. I'll fill you in on everything else as soon as I secure my plans. It was a great year, and I am really thrilled that I get to stay for next year as well...I'll update the blog more as I have more of my summer adventures to share.

Until then!

A Photographic Hike: Two Months and Two Faces of the Schöckl

Last month, in mid-March on the day before Easter, I climbed the Schöckl--Graz's pet mountain--with a visiting friend. It was more of an in-like-a-lion variety of weather: snowy, foggy, and temperatures resting around 0° Celsius. This, however, made for adventurous fun and a good story.



Yesterday, deciding to capitalize on the sunny spring-like weather, I went back out to the Schöckl with a local friend. This time, a month later, the sky was blue, the sun was shining, the birds were singing, and the weather was just right: cool enough to be chilly while stationary and warm enough to be shedding layers while under way.


It was intriguing to see the difference that a month, a little precipitation, and some nice weather can make...






So that behind me?...That's what we're setting out to hike! The Schöckl looks so much smaller from the bottom! (From the summit, there's a surprisingly good view.)

All of these trees were felled in the big wind storm in February. From a distance, it looks like a whole chunk of the mountain was cleared out!

This is a good spot for a sandwich break...no matter what the weather!





Now that the snow has melted, there is sap dripping down from the end of the trunk. (Clearly, this one was cut down, not blown down...)





It was a bit hazy, so it's hard to see the snow-capped mountains in the background. In the wintery weather, it's hard to see anything in the background!





On they way back down from the summit, approaching the tree line again. Apparently the tree line here is lower altitude than the tree line in Colorado.

And here we are! At the summit cross at the south (I think) end of the Schöckl...and who can resist a little fun on the hang glider runway?!

P.S. Just an interesting tidbit to close: Apparently, in 1811, reaching the summit of Schöckl was an expedition that required several days and a professional guide, as there were still wolves and bears that roamed the area back then. Nowadays we don't have to worry about becoming bear food!

Not a ban, per se...

Last week Graz passed a new law--a ban on the use of cell phones on public transportation.

When stated so simply, as above, there are two immediate reactions: (1) "That's ridiculous! How can they possibly restrict people from talking in public places?!"; followed by (2) "Actually, the lack of irritating ringtones and annoying one-sided conversations would make the commute a bit more enjoyable..."

In fact, this new law--proudly ushered in by Graz mayor Siegfried Nagl--almost came into effect completely undetected. As I don't get a local newspaper, news channel, or otherwise have an ear to the local city politics, I rely largely on word-of-mouth and the headlines I see in passing for my local news. I'd heard nothing about it when I boarded the tram with a friend last week and noticed a round, retro-looking sticker next to the sliding doors; I did notice the sticker and thought to myself in passing, "Heh, it's not every day you see the pristine public transportation vandalized with stickers!" I didn't bother to read it as I was boarding, and I thought it must be the work of some mischievous high schoolers. Sitting in the tram with my back turned to flatscreen TV constantly scrolling with headlines and trivia, I chatted with my friend on the trip into town. At one point, her voice trailed off mid-sentence, her eyebrows furrowed, and she stared dumbfoundedly at the flatscreen. "What is it?" I asked her. "I'm not sure..." she answered hesitantly. "I didn't catch the whole story, but something about not being allowed to use cell phones on the tram anymore?..." We laughed it off and continued into town. On the way back home, I noticed that this tram too had an identical sticker in the same spot; what were the chances? This time I took a closer look, and I noticed that the sticker was actually calling for cell phones to be on silent mode in the busses and trams! (See photo, top.)

Still uncertain what was going down, it wasn't until the following morning that I got my hands on a newspaper and found an article about Graz's most recent law: effective immediately, cell phones have been banned from public transportation in Graz. But the most intriguing thing about this law is that it is purely for looks. There are no penalties. No fines. No enforcement of any kind. ...So what's the point?

According to the Graz city government, "Diese Maßnahme wird als Gebot und nicht als Verbot realisiert"--that is, "This action is being put into effect as a command rather than a ban." Just as the official wording tries to put a positive spin on the new law, so do the new cell phone regulations: Cell phones must be switched to silent mode while on public transportation and may not be used to conduct conversations; cell phones may, however, be used on silent mode for texting, surfing the internet, and other nonverbal functions. Bus and tram drivers as well as ticket controllers are urged to pay heed to the new laws and are given the official ok to confiscate the offending device and personally switch it to silent mode if necessary; in extreme cases, obstinate passengers can get kicked off the bus or tram. This being said, the big kicker is--THERE IS NO PENALTY! There is essentially nothing--NOTHING!--they can do if they [even bother to] catch you. They ask you to stop. That's it. No fine, no ticket, no nothing. And although ticket controllers (whom I've seen maybe 5 times in the 7 months I've been here) and drivers (who pretty much stick to their own space and don't tend to be very confrontational) technically have the authority to do something about it, most local residents are hedging their bets that they simply won't. This is a law that will not be regulated or enforced...and most residents seem to be taking it with the same degree of earnestness as the law itself exudes.

The aim of the new law is clear: to eliminate needless noise for a more peaceful ride on the public transportation. Having relied soley on public transportation for two years in New York, I can say that the Austrians are silent as the grave in comparison. Unless you travel at peak times--such as when schools let out, Friday and Saturday nights as all the young people are going out, or on the unfortunate occassion of a fan-filled hometown soccer game--you will find the public transportation to be eerily silent. So quiet, in fact, that I don't answer my cell phone on public transportation anyway, simply because even a whispered conversation could be uncomfortably overheard by many. Sure, you have your occassional passenger with no sense of decibel level or cell phone etiquette, but that is certainly the exception rather than the rule in this society.

So is this funny new law an attempt by Nagl to get into the good graces of the volume-sensitive masses in Graz? Having recently been reelected in January, it's hard to take one of his first actions as (newly reelected) mayor seriously. And judging by his own explanation, one has to wonder if he even takes himself seriously: ''I know I insulted the cell phone goddess a little,'' he quipped. "But people need to know they don't have the right to be on the telephone permanently and constantly. It's just not healthy to never be able to get any peace and quiet.''

At a recent gala where two politicians arrived late, the moderator, a Viennese actor, seized the opportunity to take a jab at the Styrian mayor: "We also tried to reach Mayor Siegfried Nagl all day on his cell phone--but in vain. I reckon he was in the tram!"

***For more on this subject, check out the Associated Press article in English here. Or, for an article in the Austrian newspaper Die Presse, click here.

So what next?

So again, it's been awhile since I posted anything, so I'll just catch you up on the big news, which most of you who read this should know by now. But just in case you hadn't heard...

I'll be staying for another year in Austria! I was accepted for a placement in Weiz--the town 30 minutes from Graz where I happen to be teaching now. The suprising thing about the placement is that I will remain at the technical school, and it will become my home school; this is something we'd requested but were told it was impossible to change home schools or to break the connection between Birkfeld and Weiz. Teaching in Birkfeld was great--the students, faculty, and the school itself were great--but waking up at 5 am for 4 days a week was not something I really wanted to repeat next year. Next year I can wake up at the reasonable hour of 6 am (my, my, how my concept of reasonable hours has changed!) and enjoy the beautiful commute through the countryside to Weiz. My home school will be the technical school with all the boys, and my second school will be in the same building and--for good balance--mostly girls! So really, it's quite a good arrangement. And now that I'm in the same school for another year, I'll really have to learn these guys' names!!

It's also quite noteworthy to mention that I've begun to receive visitors! (*hint, hint*) The week before Easter, 3 friends from New York came out for Spring Break in Austria, and we had a blast traipsing around Graz, further into Styria, and beyond to Vienna. They have the honor of being the first from back home to visit me in Austria, and aside from the fun and the laughter and the adventure they brought with them, they brought enough warm fuzzies and I-love-you-guys moments to last me for quite some time.

Last weekend I also had the chance to meet up with my aunt and cousin in Venice! I'd never been to Venice before, but since Venice is between me in Austria and my cousin in London (just go with it!), we met up there for a long weekend of countless photo opps and rich Italian food. It was fantastic to see family again, and seeing Venice--the city that hasn't changed in hundred of years--was intriguing. More warm fuzzies!

I've got more visits in the works for May and August, so if you want to jump onboard and follow suit, feel free... :)

Coming soon: Graz's ridiculous new cell phone law...